New Design: Icelandic Jacket

TucksMy design began with a photo of the bare wild nature at Iceland, on the digital magazine Twist Collective‘s mood board, last spring for their Winter 2013 issue. I began with Rowan Felted Tweed Dk in Watery – a color, reminiscent of the lagoons, that I have admired for a long time but not used – and discovered that to create a contrast it worked well with Rowan Fine Tweed in Wensley, a darker teal moving towards bottle green. For the main yarn I wanted something luscious with a bit of silk, and did not have to look for long until I discovered that Jaggerspun Zephyr Lace has a divine teal color called Juniper, available online at Handweavers Studio. I began thinking about sleeves, and decided I wanted repeated tucks to adorn the hands in Felted Tweed, then a reverse stockinette stitch band in Rowan Fine Tweed, and then plain stockinette stitch in Jaggerspun Zephyr Lace.

DSC_1898I love reversible cables and needed to break up all the stockinette stitches so a cowl in Rowan Fine Tweed would hold it all together. I planned to work the shrug in two parts from each sleeve, and graft them together. My Icelandic Shrug was submitted but rejected. After a long period of rejection, this time from me, I was ready to continue, and realized I wanted an A-line jacket. I am not a big fan of stockinette stitch since I find it tedious to knit, and thought I could use the cowl cable pattern as a back panel. My Icelandic Jacket, had found its soul, and was born. In addition to the cowl it needed a focus on the front; the solution was bespoke jewelry buttons by Siri Berrefjord see Siris’ Skattkammer/Treasure Trove. The pattern will be published in Norwegian in Made By Me on Monday, while the English pattern will be test knitted in my group on Ravelry in October before it is released in my Ravelry Store.

DSC_1903Both the jacket and the cowl is knitted using a 3 mm/US 2.5, and the body is knitted in three panels; Left Panel, Right Panel and Spine Panel. Each side panel is sewn to the Spine Panel and has an interfacing front band which is knitted simultaneously and then folded back. The bottom hem on the side panels is knitted into place. The sleeves with their tuck cuffs are knitted in the round to the armhole and then worked back and forth in rows. The cowl is identical to the Spine Panel, just longer and joined at the short ends. I made the jacket in sizes S (M, L, XL, 2XL) and the cowl just in one size.

DSC_1915I ordered 3 bespoke buttons from Siri, who suggested sewing snap fasteners on the back. Unfortunately due to slow mail, only 1 button made it for the photo shoot in Fredrikstad in June but it was sufficient to show it off. Here are the button details and do look at Siri’s photos of my swatches in a previous blog post: 3 buttons (17 mm/28L, 0.70″) and 3 sets of snap fasteners to attach on the back. Special ordered buttons on sample are made by Siri Berrefjord, siri@fredenshavn.no see Siris’ Skattkammer/Treasure Trove, and buttons-by-siri-berrefjord.

DSC_1923The cowl looks beautiful also wrapped twice around the neck, or adjusted with a shawl pin into a belt as Remarkable Stylist Kristin Elise Halkjelsvik (see facebook.com/Makeløs Kristin E Halkjelsvik) demonstrated to me on the evening before the photoshoot. She has taught me how to wear unheard of textiles such as tablecloths as skirts, and I have taught her how to structure a photo shoot. During our lunch meetings we also found out that Monica Stålvang has the perfect bottle green wedge boots to match, called Bettina with a stunning stiletto look from behind, see shop.monica-stalvang.com/product/bettina-green . Below is a photo from the photo shoot in Fredrikstad, which was such a fun day with photographer Eivind Røhne (see beyondtheice), make-up & hair stylist Janne Skarpeid Hermansen, model Pia Cecilie/ Team Models and editor Mary-Ann Astrup. Not present in the photo is stylist Kristin Elise Halkjelsvik who had started packing her suitcases of treasures.

DSCN1763I cannot wait to show you the result of the photo shoot and all the pages in upcoming Made by Me.

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Familien Strikk August 2014

Familien StrikkFor the first time, I have 6 designs in a magazine together with a presentation of me, and an article on how to design, which was written when I was making my Knitting Design Workshop. As long as I supplied 8 patterns (2 of the 6 have several parts), I could organize my own photoshoot, an opportunity I did not want to miss. In my chosen team is photographer Kim Müller, dancer Francesca Golfetto and stylist Line Sekkingstad. As well as Norwegian shoe designer Monica Stålvang whose inspirational shoes and boots were essential to the collection. This magazine is a separate issue made by one of the largest magazines in Norway; Familien and it is called Strikk, meaning Knit. Above is the cover with only a small but striking photo of my design Zest Shawl in a zingy green with a matching cowl.

DSC_2016I have two prominent photos on the contents page, to my delight. Meet Norwegian Designers is the headline to the introduction by the Handcraft editor Åse Myhrvold Egeland. The middle of second paragraph reads: “It is not easy to be a designer and make a living off it in Norway. Therefore we think it is important to present some exciting names whom might be unknown to you. But first and foremost we focus on Norwegian design because there is so many great designs to find here. Linda Marveng has, in addition to create a gorgeous series in fabulous colors, written how you can design your own garments. So who knows – maybe it is your designs we show in the magazine next year?”

DSC_2017My series of designs have been given the heading: For inspiration. “I want to inspire you who knit, and want you to enjoy the pictures photographed by Kim Müller of dancer Francesca Golfetto from Nasjonalbaletten/The National Ballet.” The introduction to the different designs, is the one I have written for each pattern. My bio is from my Norwegian knitting book. The only new addition is what I do for a living at the present: “Now I am living in Oslo with my British husband, I design for Familien, Made by Me and the American Clotheshorse, hold workshops, proof read knitting patterns, and translates knitting patterns to and from English.” Shawl Sleeves, knitted in one strand of Ask – Hifa 2 and one strand of Rowan Fine Tweed held together using a 4 mm/US 6, and Scarftex, knitted in ones strand of Rowan Lima and one strand of Rowan Fine Tweed  held together using a 5.5 mm/US 9,  are both available in English from my Ravelry Store.

DSC_2019Here are the next two pages with Zest Shawl, knitted in Rowan Softknit Cotton using 4.5 mm/US 7 and Carla Coat, knitted in Rowan Lima held together with Hifa Norsk Pelsull using 5.5 mm/US 9. I have recently received a few exquisite photos of the Zest Shawl taken by jewelry designer Siri Berrefjord with her brooch on, and will shortly release the pattern in English in my Ravelry Store. The Carla Coat on the other hand, is currently being test knitted, in my Ravelry group. If you are a member of Ravelry, you can take a look at the magnificent photos of test knitters’ coats and join the test knit as well as the group if you are tempted. 

DSC_2020Here are the last two designs presented: Curvy Check Cowl and Conic Coat. The first is knitted in a self composed tweed made by combining Ask – Hifa 2 and Rowan Fine Tweed, while the coat is knitted in Embla – Hifa 3. The cowl pattern will be available in English soon, while the test knit of the coat will begin early October in English in my Ravelry group.

DSC_2021-EditFollowing my design pages, is the article I have written on design: “This is how you make your own design”. “Today there are numerous patterns in magazines, booklets, books and online. And yet it is not certain that you will find exactly what you are looking for; So why not make your own pattern?”

My example is the Tyrol Jacket, see photograph by Kim Müller of Francesca Golfetto and my husband’s sketch, available in English to download. I will not translate the full article but the main points are:
1. Sketch/Notes. 2. Choose yarn and stitch pattern. 3. Swatch. 4. Basis pattern. 5. Use a finished garment. 6. Take measurements. 7. Ease. 8. Calculations. 9. Collars and borders. 10. Yarn amount. 11. Write pattern. 12. Test knitting.

DSC_2022-Edit

The magazine in available in news agents like Narvesen and selected supermarkets in Norway. If you live abroad and read Norwegian, or simply are desperate to get your hands on it, you can order a copy and receive an invoice for the magazine plus postage from Customer services by emailing: kari.bachke@egmont.com

Familien liked my designs and especially the bright colors I chose for all the designs, so they have ordered another series for next year’s issue. I am honored and very grateful for this opportunity!

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Buttons by Siri Berrefjord

_SBB4025I have for a long time admired Siri Berrefjord’s jewelry, see Siris’ Skattkammer/Treasure Trove, and when I finally met her at a Designerkollektivet event last year, I asked if she could make buttons for my designs. The answer to my delight was positive as long as I did not need 10 identical ones since they are cast from a mold. All that Siri needed was a yarn sample, and an idea of the size I wanted the button to be. I showed her my swatches when a brilliant idea popped into my mind; would she photograph them with her buttons on? Siri is a former professional photographer of antiques and jewelry so she knows exactly how to capture colors and texture, see fredenshavn.no. Here is the unique result of the buttons made to order and the equally stunning photos she has taken. My swatches are of the Icelandic Jacket, a new design I will reveal next week, made in a combination of Jaggerspun Zephyr LaceRowan Felted Tweed and Rowan Fine Tweed to be published in Made by Me on 1st of September. The cuff has tucks in tweed and the cables adorn the back panel and the matching cowl. Notice the layers of color that Siri has applied to the buttons making them a perfect match to the color specks in the three different yarns. They are made in plastic inspired by traditional historic national costume silver and each one is unique.

_SBB4027Now, that I have been spoilt with these magnificent buttons, I am not sure I will be satisfied with a mass produced buttons ever again! Yet another addiction of mine. If you want Siri’s unique buttons for a special garment, you too can order directly from her stating what size, how many and sending her a small yarn sample. Just email: siri@fredenshavn.no

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Strik Bornholm – A Knit Festival

10264385_689151927786538_7555932351586898028_nSeveral months back I was invited to take part in Strik Bornholm, a knitting festival which takes place on the Danish holiday island of Bornholm from Thursday 4th to Sunday 7th September. I was thrilled to be asked and will hold two workshops in my native Norwegian; one on Japanese Patterns and one on Finishing. In June there were 341 participants who had signed on and several of the workshops were fully booked. On the program is an open exhibitors hall, knit cafés, workshops, excursions with knitting lessons, and a festival dinner with presentations by the star attraction; American designer and former Creative Director of Berroco Yarns Norah Gaughan as well as Inga Walløe from Hendes Verden/Her World – a Danish magazine for the creative among us. To my surprise my husband wanted to come – it must have been the drive through Southern Sweden to Ystad and my suggested stop-over there that tempted him. Why Ystad? Because this is where Kurt Wallander, the crime fiction character by author Henning Mankell, lives and works. From Ystad we will take the ferry to Rønne on Bornholm, where a holiday flat with a sea view is waiting for us. I look forward to this knit event, and I am so delighted that I was able to book a space on one of Norah Gaughan’s workshops: Number 62 (out of the 69 on offer by 20 different holders): Pattern Stitch Development and Design Possibilities. At least one if not several reports will follow. Here is the rest of my workshop schedule for the autumn, all in Norwegian since they are all held in my native language:

Strikkedesign, lørdag og søndag 20. og 21. september i Oslo, se husflid.no/lokallag/oslo/lokale_kurs

Montering, lørdag 27. september for Strikk og Drikk i Stavanger, se gruppen på Facebook: facebook.com/groups/

Japanske mønstre, søndag 28. september for Strikk & Drikk i Stavanger, se gruppen på Facebook: facebook.com/groups/

Strikkedesign, lørdag og søndag 25. og 26. oktober i Oslo, se husflid.no/lokallag/oslo/lokale_kurs

Strikkedesign, lørdag og søndag 15. og 16. november under Strikkehelgen i Stavanger, se strikkehelgstavanger og min bloggpost: strikk-og-drikkknit-and-drink-in-stavanger

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Shawl Sleeves Pattern Released

Shawl Sleeves COVER

I am delighted to release my Shawl Sleeves pattern in English. The Norwegian pattern will be published as one in a series, in the special issue of Familiens Strikkebok out on the 25th August. The finished result is more abstract than I had in mind, but still fun to drape around your body or merely use one as a generous scarf. You can easily make it longer by adding pattern repeats, just keep in mind that you will need more yarn. I made my own tweed by holding one strand of Rowan Fine Tweed together with one strand of Ask – Hifa 2. Here it is; brilliantly worn by dancer Francesca Golfetto, beautifully styled by Line Sekkingstad and photographed by Kim Müller. Here is my introduction to the pattern: A sleeve that ends in a shawl, worked in reversible cables with two very different sides and lined by checks, made to drape and pin together as you wish. The cables are worked half in rib, half in reverse stockinette stitch, and provides a soft contrast to the curvy checks. Knit in the round to the armhole, then flat on the shawl to the hem at the end. This is a conceptual accessory with a modern shape.

Sizes: S/M (L/XL, 2XL)

Finished measurements                                                                                           Sleevelength: 52 (52, 54) cm/20.5 (20.5, 21.25)” + Shawl length: 80 (84, 88) cm/31.5 (33, 34.75)”                                                                                                                                                 Sleeve width bottom: 21 (24, 27) cm/8.25 (9.5, 10.75)”                                                             Sleeve width top: 32 (34, 36) cm/12.5 (13.5, 14.25)”                                                                   Shawl width: 36 cm/14.25″

Yarn: Rowan Fine Tweed in Leyburn 383: 12 (13, 14) skeins (100% wool, 25 g, 90 m/98 yds); 1080 (1170, 1260) m/1181 (1279, 1378) yds. Rowan Fine Tweed

Hillesvåg, Ask – Hifa 2 in Melange Corn Yellow 6502: 3.5 (4, 4.5) skeins (100% wool, 100 g, 315 m/344 yds); 1080 (1170, 1260) m/1181 (1279, 1378) yds. Ask Melert

Note: Yarns are held together throughout.

Alternative yarn: Brooklyn Tweed Shelter (100% wool, 50 g, 128 m/140 yds). Shelter

Needles: 2 sets of 4 mm/US 6 circular needles (100 cm/40″) for hems and sleeve part.     4 mm/US 6 straight needles for shawl part. Adjust needles to match gauge.

Notions: stitch markers, cable needle and yarn needle.

Gauge: 18 sts and 26 rows in st st and Check pattern using a strand of each yarn and 4 mm/US 6 measures 10 cm/4 square (steamed and stretched).                                                Rib and purl cable across 32 sts measures 11 cm/4.25 wide.

Notes: The sleeves are worked in the round from the bottom with a hem to the armhole bind-off. Then you cast on for a shawl edge and increase a few stitches to reach full shawl width. The only sewing required is attaching the beginning of the shawl edge to the armhole. You can easily adjust the length of the shawl if you prefer.

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Scarftex Pattern Released

Scarftex ENG COVERI am delighted to release one of my last series of design, the Scarftex in English in my Ravelry Store. The Norwegian pattern will be published together with 5 other designs, all brilliantly photographed by Kim Müller, gorgeously modeled by dancer Francesca Golfetto and perfectly styled by Line Sekkingstad, in Familiens Strikkebok out on 25th August. Here is my Scarftex introduction and details: To make cables really pop I love working them in double yarns. Usually I use two strands of the same yarn but this time I chose to hold a pure wool, Rowan Fine Tweed, together with an alpaca mixture, Rowan Lima, to add bounce to the cables. This is a chunky jewelry scarf just like the type of statement jewelry I prefer. The stitch pattern I choose is a combination of reversible cables, from Lily Chin, to make a scarf with a lot of texture; a Scarftex!

Size: One Size

Finished measurements: 21 cm/8.25″ wide 140 cm/55″ long

Yarn: Rowan, Lima (8% merino, 84% baby alpaca, 8% nylon, 50 g, 110 m/120 yds) in Lima sh 888: 5 balls; 530 m/580 yds. Rowan                                                                              Rowan, Fine Tweed (100% ull, 25 g, 90 m/98 yds) in Bedale sh 361: 6 balls; 530 m/580 yds. Rowan                                                                                                                                            Note: Both yarns are held together throughout.                                                             Or another dense Worsted/Aran (10 ply) yarn with or without a Fingering (4 ply) yarn.

Needles: 5.5 mm/US 9 straight needles. Adjust needle size as needed to match gauge.

Notions: Cable needle, 2 stitch markers, yarn needle.

Gauge: 20 sts and 30 rows in garter st measures 10 cm/4″ square.

Notes: The scarf and each cable is not as difficult to work as it looks since all stitches are worked as they appear either in garter stitch or 1 by 1 rib on all on rows even during crossings.

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WE – ME by Julia Vance

DSCN1829 VanceI was so pleased to attend the unveiling of artist Julia Vance’s sculptural installation WE – ME in front of the Oslo Sentralstasjon/Central train station the other day. The journey of the sculpture which was made and exhibited in Italy, has been much slower than anticipated since it was stuck in Customs because it did not match their official description of a sculpture. To my astonishment, I read in the Norwegian National newspaper Aftenposten, how art – especially sculpture – is defined by Customs. Their description is both antique and extremely vague; A sculpture must be made by the artist, and not by any other craftsman nor assistants. It must be carved, cast or molded hence not welded. If the sculpture does not comply the artist will need to pay a full VAT to import it into Norway. The outrage and numerous comments have been entertaining to read, and packed with suggestions, plus full listings of famous sculptures that do not fill their definition, see: Public Commission stuck in customs/Offentlig-bestillingsverk-star-fast-i-tollen. The amount of press coverage probably made it unavoidable for Customs not to release the sculpture to Julia Vance just in time for her scheduled unveiling, without paying VAT and an import fee, but for unneccesary storage while it was “evaluated”. An expense that really should be refundable, in my opinion.

DSCN1831 VanceJulia Vance was one of fourteen artists that applied to take part in an art project run by Oslo Council to temporarily show art in prominent places scattered around the city. The square outside the central train station is where the sculpture WE – ME will be until Christmas. At the unveiling she talked about the concept behind the sculpture, how easy it is to turn the word “me” upside down to make “we”, just as easily as one individual can join a group and become part of a “we”. There is a big wheel on the side of the sculpture, making it into an installation, that can be turned so that the word and the meaning is changed. The wheels will only open for use every Thursday from 16.00 to 17.00 until Christmas, otherwise closed, since they are heavy to turn, and ever so tempting for children and adults alike to test out.

DSCN1031I found this captivating description of Julia Vance in the introduction to her catalogue by John B. Hightower, Former Executive Director, New York State Council on the Arts, Former Director, Museum of Modern Art, New York City: “The skill and touch of the sculptor can transform any number of materials into awakening shapes and forms that lure light and shadow across varied surfaces. JuliaVance’s sculpture adds another distinctive flair by transforming traditional calligraphy, normally considered a two dimensional presentation of letter shapes, into blocks and forms more familiar to Isamu Noguchi and Jean Arp. Her sculptural fascination with calligraphy is the result of a decade and more of perfecting this exquisite ancient art form on surfaces of paper, wood and glass.” Read the continuation and see more of her work on her website: Julia Vance.

DSCN1039The bottom two photos are taken by my husband. Here is another informative and enjoyable article from Aftenposten, on Customs’ definition of art with the headline: “Customs: This is not Art”; Aftenposten.

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Lace Ridge Top Pattern Released

Lace Ridge COVERMy next pattern released in English after a completed test knit in my Ravelry group is the Lace Ridge Top pattern which includes the cable cowl. The Norwegian pattern was published in the separate issue Familiens Håndarbeid in March. I made sure it was part of my photoshoot last autumn. Brilliantly photographed by Kim Müller, worn by the stunning looking dancer Francesca Golfetto. Here is the link to the pattern in my Ravelry store: Lace Ridge Top; A casual, stretchy long sleeveless top in an open lace ridge pattern, with a boat neck and a high twisted rib over the hips. The top is easy to knit in the round. It is worked in a divine mercerized cotton from Hifa, called Perle/Pearl which is held double to emphasize the structure of the lace pattern. The cable cowl accentuates the design and gives the top a more dressy look.

Sizes:                                                                                                                                              Top: S (M, L, XL, XXL)                                                                                                                 Cowl: One Size

Finished Measurements:                                                                                                        Bust: 110 (117, 123, 129, 134) cm/43.25 (46, 48.5, 50.75, 52.75)”                                                  Hip: 81 (86, 91, 95, 100) cm/32 (33.75, 35.75, 37.5, 39.25)” with 5 cm/2″ additional ease.    Length: 80 (80, 82, 82, 84) cm/31.5 (31.5, 32.25, 32.25, 33)”                                              Cowl: Circumference: 30 cm/11.75″ length: 116 cm/45.5″

Yarn: Hifa, Perle in heather sh 18306 (100% Egyptian mercerized cotton, 670 m/732yds, 200 g cone), see ull.no.                                                                                                                     Top: 2 (3, 4, 4, 5) cones: 1308 (1911, 2246, 2581, 2916) m/1430 (2090, 2456, 2822, 3189) yds.                                                                                                                                                   Cowl: 2 cones: 1280 m/1400 yds

Note: Yarn is held double throughout.

Yarn alternative: Anzula, Squishy (80% superwash merino, 10% cashmere, 10% nylon, 352 m/385 yds, 115 g), see anzula.com. Or another fingering/4 ply yarn to be held double throughout. Or another DK/8 ply yarn held single.

Needles: 4 mm/US 6 circular needle (80 cm/32″) for top. 4 mm/US 6 circular needle (40 cm/16″) for cowl. Adjust needle to match gauge.

Notions: 4 stitch markers, cable needle for cowl and yarn needle.

Gauge: 14 sts and 20 rows in Lace Ridge Pattern using 4 mm/US 6 needles and double yarn measures 10 cm/4″ square. 17 sts and 29 rnds in Twisted Rib using 4 mm/US 6 needles and double yarn measures 10cm/4″ square.

Notes: The body is knitted in the round up to the armholes and then flat to shoulders holding yarn doubled. The Lace Ridge Pattern creates a ladder at the join. There is no neckband nor armholebands. The rib will expand with wear if knitted in cotton, so do not choose a larger size based on your hip measurement. You might want to consider inserting an elastic, or knitting with a thin elastic to make the rib stay where you place it. The cowl has a temporary cast on so that the ends can be easily be grafted together. The cable on the cowl is very wide so working it without a cable needle is not recommended.

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Lacy Rib Shawl Pattern Released

Lacy Rib Shawl COVERIt has taken awhile, I know, but I am working on releasing all the remaining book patterns in English as individual downloadable patterns in my Ravelry Store. Next, is the popular Lacy Rib Shawl: A slubby yarn, gives this lacy rib shawl with cowl and wrist warmers an exciting uneven texture. The now discontinued Colina from Thomas Kvist Yarns is a mixture of cotton and linen. A reversible lace pattern by Lynne Barr, was perfect for this shawl with a cowl as a collar and wrist warmers in a matching rib. Despite being discontinued, the yarn is still available from Mango Moon Yarns online or it can be replaced by Rowan Yarns, Summer Tweed a silk and cotton mixture. The set is stunningly photographed on beautiful dancer Francesca Golfetto by Kim Müller. The pattern is available in my Ravelry Store.

Size: One Size

Finished measurements: Shawl: 61 cm/24″ wide and 150 cm/59″ long.

Cowl: 88 cm/34.75″ circumference and 31 cm/12.25″ high.

Wrist warmers: 24 cm/9.5″ circumference and 30 cm/12″ long.

Yarn: Thomas Kvist Yarns, Colina (70% cotton, 30% linen, 100 g/4 oz, 160 m/174 yds). Sample is knitted in shade 10 Flax. The yarn is unfortunately discontinued but available online from Mango Moon Yarns,  or it can be replaced by Rowan Yarns, Summer Tweed (70% silk, 30% cotton, 50 g/2 oz, 120 m/131 yds).

Shawl: 5 skeins; 785 m/858 yds

Cowl: 2 skeins; 295 m/323 yds

Wrist warmers: 1 skein; 140 m/153 yds

Yarn alternative: Shibui Knits, Heichi  (100% silk, 50 g/2 oz, 96 m/105 yds).

Notions: 8 bone buttons (20 mm/0.78″) from Perlehuset, 5 stitch markers and yarn needle.

Needles: 4 mm/US 6 circular needle (80 cm/32″) and 4 mm/US 6 DPNs for wrist warmers. Adjust needle to match gauge.

Gauge: 17 sts and 24 rows in pattern and st st measures 10 cm/4″ square.

Notes: The shrug is knitted flat as a rectangular shawl. Buttons are attached at each end, with holes in the lace pattern used as buttonholes so that it can be buttoned into a shrug. The cowl and the wrist warmers are knitted in the round. All can easily be adjusted by adding or removing pattern repeats as desired.

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